Barbara J. Bromley, Mercer Co. Horticulturist
- late summer to early fall (best) – earlier if herbicide will be used.
- early spring (less desirable)
- DETERMINE CAUSE of turf decline or reason it is unacceptable, Correct problem. Have SOIL TEST run to determine lime and nutrient needs.
- Use a selective Herbicide (kills only broadleaved weeds) or non-selective herbicide (kills broadleaved plants and grasses), if needed. Retreat if noxious or persistent weeds are not killed by the first application. (optional).
[Wait the recommended time interval (usually 1 to 3 weeks) before seeding. Read the label!]
- MOW at about 1″. A short lawn is easier to verti-groove, seed and rake. Add topsoil to any isolated depressions. [If an excessive thatch layer (over 1 inch) is present, strip off dead grass and thatch using a sod cutter or spade. Proceed as for establishing a new lawn.]
- LIME according to soil test results, or 50 lbs./l000 sq. ft. of ground or pulverized limestone if no lime has been applied in 3 years.
- FERTILIZE according to soil test recommendation at full rate, or 15-20 lbs./l000 sq. ft. of 10-6-4 (50% slow release nitrogen) or similar 2-l- 1 ratio fertilizer. When using other ratio fertilizers, follow the label recommendation for new seedings.
- VERTI-GROOVE to remove thatch and create grooves in the soil.
- SEED at the rate recommended for the selected type of high quality grass seed.
- DRAG, using a steel doormat to clump loose thatch. (optional)
- RAKE to remove thatch, settle seed into the soil grooves, and cover the seed lightly.
- WATER, if needed. Keep uniformly moist, not wet, until germination occurs.